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The Encyclopedia of the Art of Photography

    Existing in Costume

    • Chan–Hyo Bae (1975)

    Staged self-portraiture in Western costume reveals patterns of exclusion in cultural narratives and questions of race and gender.

    Description

    Existing in Costume by Chan-Hyo Bae is a staged photographic series created primarily in London between 2005 and 2018, following Bae's move from South Korea in 2004. Through a range of sub-series including "Self-Portraits," "Fairy Tales," "Punishment," and "Witch Hunting," Bae examines themes of cultural estrangement, identity, and historical exclusion by inserting himself into historical Western settings.


    Amid rising global migration and cultural prejudice, Existing in Costume emerged from Bae's personal experience as a Korean man navigating life in the UK. His initial admiration for Western culture gave way to a sense of alienation, which he channels through elaborate self-portraits that critique racial and gender-based stereotypes. His presence within these tableaux deliberately disrupts viewers' expectations, confronting the mechanisms through which dominant societies render others invisible.


    Visually, the images are meticulously composed and richly colored, resembling old oil paintings in tone and form. They feature centrally positioned, full-length figures in traditional Western costume, often offset by anachronistic elements such as Korean fans or military tags. The tension between Bae’s identity and the roles he assumes creates a moment of visual shock that challenges viewers’ cultural assumptions.


    Technically, the project is realized through large-scale chromogenic prints, with some measuring over two meters wide. This conceptual use of masquerade aligns Bae with other artists—such as Yasumasa Morimura and Maud Sulter—who use self-portraiture to explore identity and power.


    Widely exhibited and collected, Existing in Costume has been shown at major institutions including the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston and The Museum of Photography, Seoul. Its critical reception has emphasized both its visual sophistication and its incisive commentary on belonging and cultural identity.

    Behind the work

    For the "Self-Portraits" sub-series, Bae meticulously reproduced historical British costumes, makeup, and hairstyles from the 13th to the 19th century.

    A deliberate visual choice in many of the self-portraits is that Bae's large, dark, masculine hands are often not made up, covered, or altered, in contrast to his face and costume. They are sometimes specifically posed to draw attention to this incongruity, emphasizing the tension between his identity and the role.

    The "Fairy Tales" sub-series specifically drew inspiration from seven Western children's stories that contained a strong element of social hierarchy and clear characterisation based on social class.

    To emphasize the critique of power dynamics in the "Punishment" sub-series, the supporting male characters responsible for the execution of the central historical figure (played by Bae) were intentionally performed by women.

    Quotes by the photographer

    "The desire for power in human nature can be shown as a strong prejudice against differences from other cultures."

    "I grew up in a culture that prioritises men. Before the UK, I never questioned this superiority, and I realised that cultural supremacy and male supremacy are no different."

    "I continued to attempt to position myself with the Western culture, but every time I did so, I still felt like an alienated foreigner."

    "The attempt to become British is for me like a child trying to dress like an adult."

    "When I was in Korea I admired Western culture. However, it was rooted in history rather than present day. I also admired oil paintings and styled my photographs as such."

    Tags and context
    genre
    Self-Portrait ,Staged
    theme
    Alienation ,Cultural Identity ,Identity , Social Critique ,Racial Identity ,Gender Identity ,Heritage ,Migration
    technique
    Central Composition ,Props ,Studio Lighting ,Narrative Staging ,Appropriation ,Photomontage ,Homage ,Chromogenic Print
    influence
    Classical Art ,Genre Art ,Pre-Raphaelitism ,Conceptual Art ,Queer Art
    period
    2000s ,2010s
    location
    United Kingdom

    Credits: Alasdair Foster, Talking Pictures (project nomination). Suggest an Edit

    Existing in Costume

    • Chan–Hyo Bae (1975)

    Staged self-portraiture in Western costume reveals patterns of exclusion in cultural narratives and questions of race and gender.

    Description

    Existing in Costume by Chan-Hyo Bae is a staged photographic series created primarily in London between 2005 and 2018, following Bae's move from South Korea in 2004. Through a range of sub-series including "Self-Portraits," "Fairy Tales," "Punishment," and "Witch Hunting," Bae examines themes of cultural estrangement, identity, and historical exclusion by inserting himself into historical Western settings.


    Amid rising global migration and cultural prejudice, Existing in Costume emerged from Bae's personal experience as a Korean man navigating life in the UK. His initial admiration for Western culture gave way to a sense of alienation, which he channels through elaborate self-portraits that critique racial and gender-based stereotypes. His presence within these tableaux deliberately disrupts viewers' expectations, confronting the mechanisms through which dominant societies render others invisible.


    Visually, the images are meticulously composed and richly colored, resembling old oil paintings in tone and form. They feature centrally positioned, full-length figures in traditional Western costume, often offset by anachronistic elements such as Korean fans or military tags. The tension between Bae’s identity and the roles he assumes creates a moment of visual shock that challenges viewers’ cultural assumptions.


    Technically, the project is realized through large-scale chromogenic prints, with some measuring over two meters wide. This conceptual use of masquerade aligns Bae with other artists—such as Yasumasa Morimura and Maud Sulter—who use self-portraiture to explore identity and power.


    Widely exhibited and collected, Existing in Costume has been shown at major institutions including the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston and The Museum of Photography, Seoul. Its critical reception has emphasized both its visual sophistication and its incisive commentary on belonging and cultural identity.

    Behind the work

    For the "Self-Portraits" sub-series, Bae meticulously reproduced historical British costumes, makeup, and hairstyles from the 13th to the 19th century.

    A deliberate visual choice in many of the self-portraits is that Bae's large, dark, masculine hands are often not made up, covered, or altered, in contrast to his face and costume. They are sometimes specifically posed to draw attention to this incongruity, emphasizing the tension between his identity and the role.

    The "Fairy Tales" sub-series specifically drew inspiration from seven Western children's stories that contained a strong element of social hierarchy and clear characterisation based on social class.

    To emphasize the critique of power dynamics in the "Punishment" sub-series, the supporting male characters responsible for the execution of the central historical figure (played by Bae) were intentionally performed by women.

    Quotes by the photographer

    "The desire for power in human nature can be shown as a strong prejudice against differences from other cultures."

    "I grew up in a culture that prioritises men. Before the UK, I never questioned this superiority, and I realised that cultural supremacy and male supremacy are no different."

    "I continued to attempt to position myself with the Western culture, but every time I did so, I still felt like an alienated foreigner."

    "The attempt to become British is for me like a child trying to dress like an adult."

    "When I was in Korea I admired Western culture. However, it was rooted in history rather than present day. I also admired oil paintings and styled my photographs as such."

    Tags and context
    genre
    Self-Portrait ,Staged
    theme
    Alienation ,Cultural Identity ,Identity , Social Critique ,Racial Identity ,Gender Identity ,Heritage ,Migration
    technique
    Central Composition ,Props ,Studio Lighting ,Narrative Staging ,Appropriation ,Photomontage ,Homage ,Chromogenic Print
    influence
    Classical Art ,Genre Art ,Pre-Raphaelitism ,Conceptual Art ,Queer Art
    period
    2000s ,2010s
    location
    United Kingdom

    Credits: Alasdair Foster, Talking Pictures (project nomination). Suggest an Edit

    Existing in Costume 1, 2006
    Existing in Costume 3, 2007
    Existing in Costume 5, 2007
    Existing in Costume 7, 2007
    Existing in Costume 14, 2006
    Existing in Costume - Cinderella, 2008
    Existing in Costume - Beauty and the Beast, 2009
    Existing in Costume - Sleeping Beauty, 2009
    Existing in Costume - Snow White, 2010
    Existing in Costume - Rapunzel, 2009
    Existing in Costume - Anne Boleyn, 2012
    Existing in Costume - Mary Stuart, 2012
    Existing in Costume - Thomas Cranmer, 2012
    Existing in Costume - Guy Fawkes, 2012
    Existing in Costume - Charles 1st, 2012
    Existing in Costume - Crime of Contracting with the Devil, 2016
    Existing in Costume - Crime of Raining Down the Hailstorm, 2016
    Existing in Costume - Crime of Worshipping the Devil, 2016
    Existing in Costume - Witch Participating in the Devil's Festival, 2016
    Existing in Costume - Crime of Spreading the Disease, 2016
    Jumping into The Judgement of Paris, Joachim Wtewael, 2017
    Jumping into The Virgin and Child Enthroned, with Saints, Jan de Beer and workshop, 2017
    Jumping into Diana and Callisto, Titian, 2017
    Jumping into The Virgin and Child Enthroned with Four Angels, Quinten Massys, 2018
    Jumping into The Virgin and Child with Musical Angels, Master of the Saint Bartholomew Altarpiece, 2018

    Books

    img 4690 custom
    Existing in Costume
    • The Museum of Photography, Seoul, 2018

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